The New York Times style section is telling women to "be themselves" -- as long as it involves choking down a hunk of beef -- and you well get the ultimate prize: a man.
I don't really have problems with women ordering meat, or salads, or whatever it is she wants to eat. The problem is this story just makes women even more self-conscious about her eating habits on a date. Besides, if a woman is on a date with a man who judges her based on what she orders, does she really want to be with him anyway? Of course not.
Maybe the New York Times style section should just put a period after the end of that "be themselves" comment and leave it at that.